Press Clippings

By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

North of the border, most of us still don't understand Mexican food. Many Americans believe Mexican is only spicy and cheesy, folded into a taco or tortilla. Or they think it comes out sizzling on a platter.

We confuse Mexican with Tex-Mex, or even a chain restaurant's poor interpretation of Tex-Mex.

Even fewer Americans know some of the best Mexican food is served in the morning, at breakfast and brunch. And we don't mean breakfast burritos. Brunch in Mexico includes a wide variety of dishes served at home or in restaurants.

Next Sunday, you can take your palate to school on Mexican breakfast food, noon-3 p.m., when restaurants offer authentic brunch dishes at the Cincy-Cinco Festival at Coney Island.

"What makes Mexican breakfast special is the selection is limited, but still limitless," says Alfonso Cornejo, chairman of the Cincy-Cinco Festival who grew up in Mexico City and now lives in Montgomery.

Many of the dishes are based on eggs, beans and tortillas, he says. But Mexican cooks add personal touches by varying the salsa or chiles in them.

"They do eggs so many different ways," says Lourdes Leon, a Mexican native who owns Taqueria Mercado in Fairfield, which will serve brunch at Cincy-Cinco.

"Some people have asked us when we will start doing it (serving brunch), but we're not sure Cincinnati is ready for that yet," she says.

Although Mexican brunches can be elaborate affairs, many of the dishes were born from practicality. Chilaquiles (tortilla casserole of tomatoes, cheese and sometimes chard or other greens), for instance, is often made with leftover tortillas.

"Mexican cooks don't like to waste anything," Cornejo says.

In Mexico City and other large cities, business executives often schedule meetings at breakfast and brunch, he says. Morning meetings allow them to avoid afternoon and evening traffic jams.

But breakfast or brunch, especially on weekends and holidays, is also a prime time for families and friends to gather.

"We enjoy conversation and spending time with people," Cornejo says.

Though the menu may be different, that, at least, is a brunch tradition we understand and share with our neighbors south of the border.

If you go

What: Mexican brunch at Cincy-Cinco Festival

When: Noon-3 p.m. next Sunday

Where: Coney Island

Cost: Brunch dishes $1-$3.50 (a la carte). Festival tickets: $10 (children under 16 free) at the gate and Kroger stores.

Festival: A celebration of Hispanic culture, food and art, Cincy-Cinco Festival is organized by the Greater Cincinnati Hispanic community and presented by Procter & Gamble and other sponsors. Festival hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. next Sunday.

Information: Web site.

Mexican brunch dishes

Atole: Beverage of masa (corn flour) and milk or water, mixed with crushed fruit and sugar or honey.

Chilaquiles: Tortilla casserole of tomatoes, cheese and sometimes chard or other greens.

Huevos rancheros: Sunny-side-up egg served on a fried corn tortilla, topped with tomato-chile sauce.

Huevos a la Mexicana: Eggs scrambled with tomato, onion and green chile salsa.

Huevos con chorizo: Eggs scrambled with spicy Mexican sausage.

Huevos con machaca: Eggs scrambled with shredded beef jerky, chopped tomato, onion and green chile.

Papas con rajas: Potatoes with onion, poblano chile and sometimes cream.Food Stuff

E-mail cmartin@enquirer.com